Cheap Sleeps Tokyo: Asakusa

By Rachel Turner | Monday, Apr 7, 2008

Cheap lodging in Tokyo is not easy to come by. In this installment of Cheap Sleeps, I’ll explore Asakusa in search of a good night’s sleep on a pauper’s budget. Along the way, I’ll crash at a hostel, unwind at a love hotel, and find peace in a pod.

Tokyo is my layover city. Usually I arrive in the late evening and depart the next morning. I hate spending an exorbitant amount of money to stay in a hotel for twelve hours. This has led me to search the city for cheap sleeps. Most guidebooks will list Asakusa as Tokyo’s budget lodging hub. While the neighborhood isn’t exactly in the thick of things as far as nightlife goes, it is very accessible. The Ginza line connects it to Shibuya and Ueno (which connects to the Yamanote line), and the Keisei line will carry you to either Narita or Haneda airport.

The Sakura Hostel can be a little difficult to find. It is nestled on a back street near the Hanayashiki Amusement Park. Fortunately, their website gives very detailed instructions for those of us who are a little directionally challenged. Sakura Hostel is only a few minutes walk from the subway station and from Asakusa’s main cultural attractions, Sensoji Temple and Kaminari-mon gate.

The hostel itself is clean and cheap (by Tokyo standards). Unlike other hostels in the area (Khaosan Tokyo Hostel, in particular) the staff is knowledgeable, helpful, and friendly. The common room is a great place to check email, meet fellow travelers, or just relax with a beer and a book. Private rooms can be a little expensive (singles are 6,090; doubles are 8,200), but the dorms are reasonable at 3,150 per person. The dorms are clean, and each bunk has a privacy curtain. The hostel also offers daytime stays (2,100 for four hours), if you just need a quick nap.

Almost next door to Sakura Hostel is Asakusa’s most noticeable love hotel, the neon monstrosity La Cachette. I passed the fountains and flashing outside lights and entered into the cool interior of the hotel. There I found the room menu on my left. While I didn’t see any fun themed rooms, the rooms that were available were modern and flashy. Full night stays started at 7,000 and went up from there. There was no need to pay for the room in advance. Payment was required upon checkout. (It should be noted, though, that it’s not possible to leave the hotel and come back once you’ve checked in. The room door locks behind you, and will not open again until payment is received. So be sure to grab what you need from outside before you check in.)

The mirrored elevator took me to my room. I opted for a smaller, cheaper room, so quarters were a little tight. Thanks to the amenities, however, the room would be a steal at twice the price. In addition to the obligatory vibrating bed, the room had a cappuccino machine, a hot tub (complete with flashing lights), a karaoke machine, a video game system, in-bathroom and in-bedroom flat screen televisions (showing programming not normally included free with a room), and more toiletry freebies than I’ve ever seen in a hotel. If it weren’t for the erotic toy machine at the foot of the bed and sexual position suggestions painted on the ceiling, this room could easily go for three times the asking price. Everything was remarkably clean and new. If you have an opposite sex traveling companion, this hotel is the way to go.

Unfortunately, most of my stopovers in Tokyo are solo ones, and I’m not a huge fan of shared dorms. This led me to the Asakusa Riverside Capsule Hotel. The price was right at 3,000/night, and a women-only floor sold me. The entrance is a little hard to find, but it is only a 2-3 minute walk from the station. When exiting the station, look toward the waterfront for the towering hotel advertising capsules for 3,000/night. The entrance to the Riverside is at the back of the building. Follow the signs up the stairs.

I got a ticket from the machine by the entrance, presented it to the clerk, and checked in. After a long soak in the onsen-style bath (which is open all night for late arrivals), I donned my provided pajamas, put my things in the locker, and crawled into my pod. I had heard horror stories of capsule hotels before arriving, and was prepared for the worst. I thought I would be entombed in a tiny coffin, waking every few hours to the snores and drunken shouts of my fellow capsule-dwellers. The pod was much bigger than I expected, a little larger than a twin bed, and tall enough to sit up and move around in. It came complete with a TV and alarm clock. While other people could be heard from behind my shaded capsule, most people were respectful of the “No Talking” rule, and I fell asleep easily.

Asakusa might not be the first choice for visitors looking to sample Tokyo’s fine dining and nightlife. It is, however, an excellent place for budget-conscious travelers. Next time you need a place to crash in Tokyo, give this neighborhood a try.

Direcitons, Rates, Information
Sakura Hostel: http://www.sakura-hostel.co.jp/
Asakusa Riverside Capsule Hotel: http://www.asakusa-capsule.jp/english/

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Rachel's articles have appeared in publications all over Japan. Check out her blog at www.amateurfatalist.com

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