Kouyou in and around Nagoya

By Emily Millar

One thing you can’t accuse Japan’s seasons of is being samey. From the unbearable sweatiness of summer to the ball-freezing chill of winter – oh yeah, variety’s the spice of life round these parts. But let’s not forget the brief respite of spring and autumn (aka “the nice seasons”), wedged in between the discomfort to remind you that Japan can be truly beautiful on occasions. Spring is king thanks to the notoriously fickle display of cherry blossoms (and all the boozing that entails), but the changing colors of the autumn leaves that sweep the country from north to south is also truly spectacular. And while kouyou (autumn colors) fanatics naturally flock to Kyoto to see the ancient capital in fiery red and gold finery, there are many spots for viewing the leaves in Aichi prefecture that certainly won’t disappoint.

Although judging the arrival of kouyou is about as reliable as predicting when an earthquake will hit, it usually begins in the Chubu region around mid-November, lasting a few weeks into early December. Some of the spots offer illuminated viewing at night, making for some picture-postcard scenes. So pull on your forlorn and forgotten jacket. It’s time to start exploring some of the kouyou viewing spots and festivals in and around Nagoya this autumn.

Korankei Gorge, Asuke City

From the 1st until the 30th of November, the Korankei Momiji (maple) Festival will be held in Asuke. Along with various events such as parades, traditional displays and festivities, 4000 maple trees within the gorge are lit-up every evening from 17:00 until 21:00, making for an amazing blaze of red and yellow reflected in the water below. The best time to view the leaves is around November 20th. It’s a fair trek, but highly recommended, if you can follow the somewhat convoluted directions.

Access: Take the Tsurumai subway line to Akaike, then change to the Meitetsu Toyota Line. Get off at Umetsubo. Change to the Meitetsu Mikawa Line, get off at Sanage Station, and take the Meitetsu Mikawa Bus to Nishi-Nakagane. From there, catch the Meitetsu bus to Korankei. Told you it was horribly complicated.

Shirotori Koen, Nagoya

Pretty Japanese gardens with around 1500 trees expected to turn around the end of November until early December.

Access: Take the Meijo subway line to Jingu-Nishi – from exit 4 it’s about a 10-minute walk to the park.

Horaiji-san (Mt Horaiji), Horai City

Horaiji-san also has Horaiji Temple nestled in its shadow. This nearly 700m high mountain is home to some cute and furry Japanese wildlife, too. Throughout November a Momiji Festival will be held. One for the travel enthusiasts, it’s quite a hike out of Nagoya, but can’t be beat for its stunning mountainside swathed in scarlet leaves. Hit the temple on the 23rd, for the main day of festivities.

Access: Take the JR Tokaido local line from Nagoya Station to Toyohashi, and transfer to the JR Iida Line. Ride to Honnagashino Station, then hitch the Toyotestu bus to the Horaiji stop. It’s a 15-minute walk from there to the temple.

Okazaki-Higashi Koen, Okazaki

A nice park, well known for its pond and pagoda. The leaves create beautiful reflections in the water, and if that doesn’t float your boat, there’s also a small zoo within the grounds. With camels. Best time to see the leaves is late November through to early December. (Camels, people! Camels!)

Access: Take the Meitetsu Nagoya line from Nagoya Station to Higashi-Okazaki Station, then a Meitetsu bus (15 min) to the park.

Fumon-ji, Toyohashi

Fumon-ji’s annual Momiji Festival is held on the first Sunday of December. An obscure choice for those of you who prefer the less touristy spots, and if you’re up for a bit of a trek out to whoopwhoop and beyond, well, you’ll have to do just that. Access: Take the Tokaido local line from Nagoya Station to Shinjohara Station. From there it’s a leisurely 40- minute stroll. Maybe ask a local. Iwayado Koen, Seto City This park is well known for its naturally spectacular rock formations, waterfalls and tranquility. There are also hiking trails and accommodation for overnight treks, if you feel so inclined. The end of November should be the best time to view the leaves.

Access: Head to Owari-Seto Station on the Meitetsu Seto line (access from Sakae). From the station, catch a JR bus for about 10 minutes to Shinano-Honmachi. From there it’s a 30 minute walk.

Jakkoin, Inuyama

About 800 large trees festooned with delicate leaves surround this temple, also called ‘Owari-no-momiji-dera’. A festival is held between November 11th and December 10th, with a couple of other special events during that period.

Access: Take the Inuyama Line to Inuyama-Yuen Station, and walk 20 minutes.

Heiwa Park, Nagoya

A local park easily accessed in Nagoya, this verdant area feels far removed from the city. Popular among locals, the leaves are already starting to turn a fiery red in parts. Just take a stroll around the grounds and get lost in the bushlands – it really feels like a deserted forest.

Access: Take the Higashiyama line to Motoyama Station. Take a left out of exit 1 and left again at the KFC (onto the main-ish road). Keep going straight along, it should take about 20 minutes on foot. The park spreads across the road, but the right-hand side is best for viewing the leaves.

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