Yokohama Tattoo Museum

By Chris Carlier

Ink-freaks from around the globe dream of making a pilgrimage to this place, a musty little two-floor treasure trove of pictures and paraphernalia, owned by the internationally-renowned tattoo master Horiyoshi III. A living legend in the tattoo community, Horiyoshi III is widely considered to be Japan’s premier exponent of the art, and has published several books on the subject. Part of a proud artistic tradition, he was trained in Yokohama as an apprentice to Horiyoshi II (not his Dad, incidentally), and is currently grooming his teenage son to follow in his footsteps as Horiyoshi IV.

Just to keep it all in the family, the museum is managed by his wife, who appears to be partial to a spot of skin-art herself – no doubt courtesy of her expert husband’s ink-gun. On show are photos and illustrations of intricate tattoos and an array of skin-art souvenirs, running the gamut from British and American tattoo-shop stencils to traditional tools used by Maoris and African tribes.

While not everything on display involves tattoos, there’s an aesthetic consistency to the place: the entire museum seems to be a shrine to its proprietor’s various dark obsessions. Shrunken heads, Spawn toys, a giant stuffed tiger and a signed photo of a tattooed Robert De Niro in Cape Fear all vie for space. If anything, the dusty, macabre space is weirdly redolent of the house from The Texas Chainsaw Massacre – probably not the best place to bring your family (unless your name is Addams). Not for nothing is there a sign in Japanese saying “no children”.

Among the more shuddersome exhibits are some ominous-looking hand-made tattoo tools from prisons, and some delightful etchings by Horiyoshi of decapitated heads decorated with what looks eerily like real blood. Creepiest of all, though, is evidence of correspondence with the notorious cult leader/mass murderer Charles Manson, with numerous letters sent from prison on display behind glass. Apparently Horiyoshi can’t read them, mind you, so don't get too worried.

Oh, and if all this leaves you wanting to get some ink done yourself, there’s probably no better place to go than Horiyoshi III’s own studio, situated above the museum. Just be prepared for a waiting list longer than War and Peace... and then some.

Tattoo Museum

Imai Building 1F
1-11-7 Hiranuma, Nishi-ku
Yokohama
(045) 323-1073
13:00-18:30 Daily, expect on the 20th and 30th of the month.
Entry: ¥1000

Directions: From Yokohama station take the Keikyu line to Tobe station. Turn right out of the exit and then take the first left (just after the fire station and big police station). Walk over the bridge, keep going and it's on the right.

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