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The East End

One of Nagoya's best-kept secrets, the area known to local gaijin as the "East End" is often overlooked by short-term visitors and long-term residents alike. It begins in busy Shinsakae and follows the Higashiyama subway line through Imaike, Chikusa, Ikeshita, Kakuozan and Motoyama to Higashiyama Park. The city thins out as you travel east, making way for peaceful residential areas and tree-lined streets. This is one of the most verdant and liveable - not to mention affluent - parts of Nagoya.

The city's two main universities, Nagoya University and Nanzan University, are found here, and can be reached via Nagoya Daigaku subway station, on the Meijo line.

The Higashiyama Park [Higashiyama Koen] complex includes the Zoo, Botanical Gardens and Sky Tower, and makes for a fun day out with friends or family. Just up the road, Heiwa Park is a nice getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city. It has some great walking and biking trails, which are best enjoyed during the autumn leaves and cherry blossom seasons.

The area is also home to some of Nagoya's smaller, but no less historically significant, temples and shrines. Toganji [P17 D-2] in Motoyama was originally built in the 16th century, and houses Nagoya's Big Buddha statue. The nearby Shiroyama Hachimangu Shrine [P17 C-1], formerly Suemori Castle, was also built in the 16th century. Sohoji Temple in Kakuozan, a century younger, today hosts the famous Kokonoe-beya stable during the summer Grand Sumo Tournament. The newer Nittaiji Temple [P17 C-1], also in Kakuozan, has an attractive five-storey pagoda and grounds for strolling, and holds a popular outdoor market on the 21st of each month.

Another interesting spot to visit, the Furukawa Art Museum [P16 A-1], houses the intriguing Tamesaburo Memorial Museum, a restored residence, featuring a beautiful Japanese garden that drops into a wooded hillside. The landscaping was supervised by master landscape artist Takayuki Inoue and is replete with small streams and tiny teahouses.

Imaike is the best place to go for entertainment. The long-running Tokuzo [P15 D-2] hosts concerts by well-known and underground artists, both Japanese and international; The Bottom Line is frequented by veteran jazz, blues and world music acts; up-and-coming (and/or terminally obscure) acts generally end up at Huck Finn, near Daiei. Cinema buffs will enjoy the arthouse movie theaters around the station. Clubbers should head to Club Mago [P14 A-2] or Club Buddha, both in Shinsakae.

There are a number of friendly hangouts in the area, catering to foreign and Japanese residents - some of them, arguably, better than anything on offer downtown. Ever-welcoming to dedicated fans and newcomers alike, Misfits in Imaike [P15 D-2] is a long-term favorite among local residents. So too are the warmly romantic Kakuozan Bar [P16 B-1], the laidback Zero Bar [P15 C-2] in Imaike, and the seriously chilled Lounge Creek [P14 B-2]. In Shinsakae, Desperados [P14 A-2] offers some truly mouth-watering Mexican grub, while Ariana [P15 C-1], north of Chikusa Station, has cheap and delicious Afghan cuisine. Those in search of American-style diner food, replete with late breakfasts and large portions, should make a beeline for c's ave. cafe in Chikusa [P15 C-2].